I didn't, but I wouldn't trade this guitar for any one out there. The guitar was too big for me, but I was sure I'd grow into it (I was barely 14). It cost me $100 - I don't know if my father kicked in some money, but I do know the case was a ratty cardboard one. Using an Education discount (my Dad was a teacher), I purchased a Yamaha FG-200 in January of 1973. The good sound of the early Yamaha is likely due to a fortunate accident of wood selection as also in the case of Stradivarius. Fretboard can be removed with an old timey iron and a metal spatula usually without needing to reset the frets. Standard methods for neck straightening are to cut off the neck and re-attatch at the right angle or remove the fretboard and shim or plane the neck flat and with the correct angle for the bridge. Truss is NEVER used for any other purpose than relief, it will not straighten a bent neck, don't try! Using the truss rod to adjust relief also has a slight effect on the saddle math. Bridges are the last consideration in action/playability, they are actioned by adjusting the neck ANGLE. There's no such thing as a high action bridge, rather suspect the neck is bent. This is an astounding sounding guitar with now amazing action and intonation. It's going to sound even better! They typically had excess nut height. I now have nut files and the Yamaha will be the second in line for re-nutting with antler. I fixed the neck problem in a very unique manner now it's perfect, relief is perfect, Lowered the action by sanding the bottom of the nut. "Made In Japan" on back of the headstock, SN on the lower bout crossbrace but too faded to read clearly, label is blonde. I was given a Yamaha FG-200 because it was unplayable, bent neck, a common problem of this model.
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